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| The South gate of the Pingyao city walls. The compact size of Pingyao ensures you're never far from the walls that are so beloved by residents.(Shanghai Daily/Hege Tollerud) |
Exploring the city walls of Pingyao, in China's central Shanxi Province, is just as much about exploring the ancient city itself, as its compact size ensures you're always near the beloved surrounding walls.
It's in stark contrast to Beijing - a huge city where hardly anything is left of the ancient city walls. In quaint little Pingyao, the wall is ever-present.
Arriving in the Ancient City of Pingyao after a long train journey (22 hours) from Shanghai, via Taiyuan, the capital of Shanxi Province, it was great to stretch my legs with an afternoon stroll in the sunshine, snacking on a local, handmade moon cake - more like a cookie than a cake.
First stop after finding my way through the West gate and to my hotel almost all the way to the east, was the Yingxun Gate in the south. A group of elderly men sat sheltered from the sun just outside the wall, where a green area stretches out southwards.
One of 10 interesting things to do when touring in Pingyao, as listed on my tourist map, is "having chats with the old men of old city." Chat was limited to some big smiles and "xiexies" (thanks), but they were people of the right category, for sure.
Climbing the wall
Walking along the inside of the wall, toward the west, and then along the western side, there wasn't really much happening; other than, that was, the excitement of witnessing a young guy in a white blazer climbing up one of the water drainage ways to impress two girls he'd brought along on his scooter.
Crystal Dong, a local who works at my hotel, Jing's Residence on East Street, has lived within the city walls all her life, and her family in generations before her.
She told me that climbing the walls is not really unusual at all. "When we were children we always climbed the city wall for fun and exercise," Dong said.
She explained how the walls have always created a feeling of security. "It feels so safe, because in our mind the city wall can protect you and your family. There is no noise and it's not so crowded," she said.
Currently there are about 40,000 people living inside the city walls of Pingyao. And of course, there are always tourists visiting.
"Now the government doesn't allow cars inside the city, the air is more fresh and there's no traffic noise," Dong continued.
Hmm... I'm not sure if I agree. Cars might be restricted inside the walls, but this did not make me feel any safer - traffic wise - as the scooters and tourist golf carts are often driven like crazy.
I got out of the traffic to enjoy a delicious dinner in the hotel restaurant and have an early night. A good choice is to let the chef choose, he'll rustle up something exquisite that is not necessarily on the menu.
One ticket for all
Day two, the "Big City Walls Discovery Day" brought rain. Not what I ordered, but I guess I can't always be lucky with the weather, and a bit of drizzle wasn't going to stop me.
Heading east, Qinhan Gate was the first I'd seen without a structure on top. Through the gate I found a lovely pebbled path along the outside of the wall, offering great views of the many watchtowers on top.
In total there are 72 watchtowers - said to represent 72 people of great wisdom. In the evening they are tastefully lit from outside. The path running along the eastern and northern wall was opened in 2012.
Rounding the northeastern corner, however, the rain got heavier, and the wind picked up, slightly dampening my wall exploration spirits. Wet and cold feet made the prospect of a hot shower at the hotel very tempting. The beauty of being a tourist in a smaller city - you are never too far away to pop back for whatever reason!
However, the rain also offered a good reason for visiting other attractions inside the city walls. I chose the Confucius Temple and the City of God Temple.
China's weekly story (2013 6.22-6.28)
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