Exquisite vegetarian dishes revived in Chinese cuisine (3)

He hid discs of water chestnut in a covering of soft hawthorn jelly, creating contrast in both taste and texture. Water caltrop is simply boiled to retain its original taste while water asparagus is shredded and fried, and fox nuts are paired with fresh corn kernels.

Everything was lightly seasoned, to retain the original flavors.

Water shield is prepared as it is traditionally made, in soup. But the chef pairs it with bamboo fungus, a porous mushroom that again provides tactile contrast.

Arrowhead was deep-fried to make a very good crisp and also stewed for a soft, smooth texture. The last dish was the chef's signature dish of green peas and fox nuts wrapped in a bean curd pocket and the meal ended with a gratifying bowl of hand-stretched noodles with mushroom and black fungus sauce.

With chefs like Zhao Bin leading the way, Beijing's vegetarians can have much to look forward to.

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