Paris now tries to become tourist-friendly (4)

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“You have very, very high-end, amazing food, but there’s a lot of crap out there, and people don’t know how to get to this middle ground where there’s really good everyday bistros.”

Kevin Hart, an American pilot visiting France with his family, said they were warned by French friends not to eat out much in Paris, although they raved about meals in the countryside.

The Harts, from Santa Barbara, California, were milling outside the Eiffel Tower, figuring out their next move after discovering that the iconic monument was shut for a strike.

“The Sunday closures, the frequent blockages (strikes), the little incivilities, all these elements, all these little things lead tourists to say to themselves, France is wonderful, but it would be even better without the French,” lamented Arino, the consultant.

What to do when Paris is closed

A great debate rages in France over whether more shops should open on Sundays. In the meantime, here are some ideas of what to do in Paris on a day when much is closed:

Head to the Marais

Many shops in this former Jewish quarter, turned Paris’ gay center and trendy shopping hot spot, follow tradition and stay closed on Saturday to open on Sunday. While the rest of Paris can feel sleepy, the Marais positively buzzes on Sundays.

Visit an ethnic neighborhood

The Little India and African markets near the Gare du Nord or the Chinatowns around the 13th arrondissement’s Avenue de Choisy and Belleville metro station in Paris’ east are all packed on Sundays. Join the crowds hunting for curry or dim sum.

Take a day trip

There are several beautiful chateaux just outside Paris: Versailles, Vaux le Vicomte, Fontainebleau. Monet’s house and gardens at Giverny are also open during the spring, summer and fall. Sundays are good for exploring these mansions and having a picnic on the grounds.

Head to a market

Many food markets are open on Sunday mornings, and the flea markets on Paris’ periphery, like those at Saint-Ouen and Vanves, are also busy on the weekends.

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