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Getting a nose for matching cheese and wines (4)

By John H. Isacs   (Shanghai Daily)

12:51, January 17, 2013

Try an elegant Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley in France or a bright and clean Albarino from the northwest of Spain with these savory soft cheeses as the acidity of the wines cuts through the fat in the cheeses and refreshes the palate, thereby also heightening flavor sensitivity.

The fruitiness of these white wines also provides additional flavor dimensions.

Hard cheeses like Parmesan and cheddar are usually served with red wines, but some weighty whites like a Napa Valley or Nelson's Bay Chardonnay are equally good partners. With Parmesan cheese I often serve a nice Tuscan or Emilia-Romagna Sangiovese red, or a Tuscan Chardonnay.

All three wines wonderfully embellish the flavors of the cheese. With mild cheddar I would recommend a lighter Chardonnay, perhaps a young Burgundy or a Chardonnay from northern Italy.

Sharp cheddars benefit from a fruity and smooth red wine, like an Aussie Shiraz or even a California Petit Sirah, which, by the way, is unrelated to the Shiraz or Syrah varieties despite the similar name.

When we get to the world of extreme cheeses, in other words blue cheeses like Stilton, Roquefort and Gorgaonzola, there are some historic combinations that still make great sense today.

Nothing tastes better than a tasty Stilton cheese with a vintage or old tawny port or a fine old sweet Oloroso sherry.

One of the gourmet world's most hedonistic experiences comes when a good Roquefort that has been aged in the Combalou caves in France is served with a top Sauternes or Barsac sweet wine from southern Bordeaux.

Finally, a properly aged Gorgonzola dances beautifully in the palate with a sweet Tuscan Vin Santo, or if you want a red wine, a very big and ripe Amarone with sufficient sweetness to balance the pungency of the cheese.

With all truly stinky cheeses, sweet wines make the most sense as they help reboot and harmonize the palate from the extreme flavor and aroma sensations of the cheeses.

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